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Authenticity · 7 min

Original or bootleg? The honest guide (signals that converge, not verdicts)

How to read a figure like an appraiser — and the myths that cost you money.

There's no single magic signal that screams "bootleg." What exists are several signals that, together, push toward original or toward copy. A good eye weighs convergence, not one single detail. Anyone who tells you "if it has X it's fake" is almost always repeating a myth.

The 8 signals to read

  1. Injection seam — its position and cleanliness.
  2. Die / base stamp — sharpness of the engraving.
  3. Paint — registration, edges, sheen, application.
  4. Plastic color — the correct tone for that line.
  5. Sculpt — proportions, pose, definition.
  6. Material and weight — the expected density.
  7. Base — shape, thickness, mold number.
  8. Marks — © , manufacturer, region.

No single one decides on its own. Two or three bad signals together already tell a story; one lone "odd" one doesn't.

The myths that need to die

  • "It feels too PVC-like → it's fake." False. Many originals are soft PVC.
  • "It says Made in China → bootleg." False. Tomy and its offshoots manufactured legally in China.
  • "The injection point is a giveaway." No: both originals and copies have it.
  • "It has relief/seam → fake." Proves nothing on its own.
  • "The ©Nintendo stamp guarantees original." No: bootlegs replicate it too. More on the CGTSJ.

Species-specific signals (real examples)

Some figures have specific details that bootlegs tend to get wrong:

Magmar
Magmar
  • Magmar: the original has the "belly button" detail on its belly; many copies omit it or get it wrong.
  • Nidoran / Nidorino: on the original, the vertical body division is well resolved; bootlegs usually fail there.
  • Ditto: one of the most counterfeited — there are plenty of copies with inscriptions changed compared to the original.

Heads up: these species "tells" are aids, not absolute shortcuts. They're used together with the 8 general signals.

How PokéFig does it

The detector never gives you a flat-out verdict. It analyzes the signals visible in your photos and returns an estimate with the points to review and how confident they are. It's the opposite of the forum's "my gut says it's fake." And it distinguishes an official offshoot (Auldey, Hasbro) from a real copy — something many people confuse.

Upload it to /identifica — it accepts multiple photos or video, and tells you where to look. For the full theory by era and material, check the anti-bootleg guide.
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